COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE

ARMANI COLLEZIONI MEN'S COLLECTION Autumn/Winter 2009-2010


TRADITIONAL QUALITY, TECHNICAL INNOVATION

A compendium of the Armani Collezioni world might read: topical, sophisticated and perfectly judged in every detail. In this contemporary collection the suit is given fresh proportions, with the jacket slightly shorter than previously, peak lapels and side vents, and the trousers in a slimmer cut, all contributing to a silhouette that follows the natural line of the body.

The fabrics have been chosen to convey the same impression of elegance as is suggested by the cut. From light wool/cashmere to 100% cashmere, from viscose microfiber to 100% wool, these fabrics demonstrate that exemplary choice of patterns and weaves  – checks, bird’s eye, Prince of Wales, a myriad of chalk stripes – that is always a principal distinguishing feature of Armani. Materials of supreme quality impart a sense of true value to luxury wear, meeting the established criteria of traditional Italian tailoring. Following on in this vein, the overcoat reassumes its important role in the male wardrobe, with attention lavished on every detail: rope shoulders, three buttons, fully lined, sometimes even with a chinstrap, in 100% cashmere, camel hair or in doublé fabric for the double-breasted version.

For an even younger image, suits are in techno flannel and polyester/viscose with a wool feel, an innovative textile that emphasises the metropolitan appeal of the garment. This mood is emphasised by the colours that run through the whole collection: grey marl, blacks that merge with shades of the darkest violet, deep green combined with black and brown, brown tending towards grape must, and dove grey graduating towards beige.

Of critical importance to this formal look are the shirts in luxury fabrics with micro-weave patterns, and double-twist threads for striped and ribbed effects. For an extra touch of refinement, pure silk comes with either a faded finish or in an abstract print. Alternatively, flocks in mini patterns or alternating stripes, as well as printed velvets, cater for the most fashion conscious.

Reconciling technique and tradition, a challenge almost as impossible as squaring the circle, is the aim of the sportswear and leather ranges. There are highlights of veritable virtuosity here, like the blousons in fully reversible nappa leather, printed on the inside, or in waterproof nappa-finish sheepskin or in split leather with a lovely lived-in appearance. Also look out for the python prints coupled with long-haired rabbit furs, and printed leather resembling puckered fabric. The Armani Collezioni hand made label identifies the craftsmanship inherent in any item in glove-quality nappa, and in nappa hand-cut on the bias.

The sportswear takes full advantage of innovative processes to offer ultra-light puffas padded with pure goose down and lined in coloured nylon; these are always reversible. There are other items with wool content and in quilted fabrics for warm but light clothes, and jackets in towelling-effect bouclé wool in a close fitted style – these pieces achieve a distinctive and surprising effect by bringing together the sophisticated matt appeal of wool with the hi-tec practicality of nylon.

The tactile and visual qualities of wool reposition knitwear centre stage, with whirls of stitches creating cable and basket weaves, the sheer comfort of stocking stitch, the compact feel of boiled wool, and the weighty texture of hand-knitted items. The innovative developments in the knitwear section culminate in the double-breasted knitwear cardigan-jacket, worn with a jacket and tie.

For the evening, there are elegant tuxedos with shawl collars in black and rich brown satin.